You may remember the early days of seeing CATS for the first time or popping the video into your DVD player.  And, after those wicked spikes, one of the first things you probably noticed were the large gems in Bomba's or Demeter's collar.  Gems make a collar pop.     A gemtsone (also called a gem, precious-, or semi-precious stone) usually refers to an attractive mineral or rock that is either from the earth or handmade.  Gemstones in jewelry are usually polished (not rough from the earth) and faceted.  A rhinestone is a simulated gemstone made from rock crystal, glass, or acrylic.  A generic name for gemsones or rhinestones is jewels.  Most rhinestones today are made from crystal, and are made in any color or shade imaginable.
	Acrylic is the cheapest variety in both price and looks and can be commonly purchased in craft/art stores for a low price.
	The next step up is glass which contains no lead and is higher in price than acrylics.  A common origin of this glass is the Czech Republic, and you will often find appropriately-named Czech glass beads or gemstones.
	The highest quality stones are from lead-crystal glass, which is especially soft, fusible, lustrous, and has high refraction and low dispersion properties. Swarovski, a company known from producing the standard for quality rhinestones and beads, produces a massive assortment of flat-back crystals which are manufactured in Austria, cut by hand, precisely cut and faceted, and are often coated with dazzling overlays.

An effect referrs to a special coating applied over a rhinestone.  Aurora Borealis is the most well-known of Swarovski's special coatings, called "effects".  Also known as "AB", it picks up the color of the jewel and magnifies it through several colors (purples, pinks, yellow, blues, and greens).  Pictured above on black background, as applied to clear crystals, bottom. Flatback means the gemstone has a flat back, as opposed to a pointed back. Foilback refers to the backing of the rhinestone.  Hotfix refers to a specially coated foil that reacts to heat and can be applied to fabrics with a special tool.   Unfortunately this backing is very sensitive to glue, and will disentigrate when in contact with most "standard" glues. Thankfully most craft stores carry at least one brand of glue meant specifically to for rhinestone use (I purchased Aleene's "Jewel-It" at Michaels). Standard rims are circular and encompass the entire jewel, while tiffany rims attach via triangular teeth. A cabochon, or cab, is a gemstone that has been shaped and polished instead of faceted (cut with flat faces).  Like rhinestones, they can be synthetic or from real stone. Authentic gemstones and cabochons are measured in MM (millimeters) while rhinestones are measured in SS (stone size).  This measures the diameter of the back of the stone.              Actual Size Chart in SS            Actual Size Chart in MM            COMPREHENSIVE COMPARISON AND SIZING CHART (ss000 - ss75)

Base Ruler Pen Gemstones Rims Rhinestone glue 2 cups Block of styrofoam (small) possibly... Leather rotary punch Phillips head screwdriver Xacto knife

SPECIAL NOTE: This majority of this tutorial encompasses actually setting loose gemstones into rims.  If you are able to purchase pre-rimmed stones, I highly recommend doing so for reasons of ease and longevity.   Unfortunately, pre-rimmed gems are difficult to find in larger sizes.  Shadow gets hers from a local leatherworker, and I've only seen smaller sized rimmed rhinestones at Kit Kraft and on eBay. I personally use loose, 13mm fairly nice-quality acrylic gems, which, by rhinestone standards, is quite large.  If going by SS (stone size) I recommend ss48 (approximately 11mm), and if going by MM (millimeter) I recommend 12-14mm.  Most retailers do not carry ss sizes larger than ss48 (but they are produced in ss49, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, and 75 and are sometimes available on eBay).  I have never used Swarovski rhinestones myself (no one has requested them because of their higher cost) so I am unsure of the corresponding rim size.  A Swarobski retailer may be able to help match your desired gem size to the appropriate rim.  (Dreamtime Creations, a retailer of gemstones, is willing to send samples of their products, including rim, so don't be hesitant to call and ask if you are unsure of what you need). Kit Kat Kraft carries some lovely 10mm rimmed pearls (somewhat small) and some amazing 1/2" round studs (metal and glittery). If using pre-rimmed gemstones, follow steps 1-3, then skip to down to step 10.

Step 1:  Choose a base and clasp method using the tutorials on the Collars page.
Step 2:  Turn your material so that the back side is facing upwards.  Use a ruler to draw a line lengthwise through the center of the base so that you can position your items evenly. Decide how far apart you would like your items to be (I usually place mine at 1/2").  Mark tics along the center line where your gemstones (or other decorations) will be placed.  You can do this freehand or with a ruler.
Step 3:  Remember those tic marks?  They indicate where your item will be placed.  Rims have prongs on either side of the metal.  This means  you will have to position your rim prongs equally distant from the tic marks.  It does not need to be exact; just use good judgment.  When you are happy with where your rim is, press it firmly into the material.  This will leave two indentations that will be your cutting guide.
Note: You can use either an X-acto knife or a leather rotary punch to create slits for your stud prongs. Some belts are too thick to be pierced by an X-acto knife, in which case the leather rotary punch should be used.
Step 4:  If using an X-acto knife, cut a small slit in the material over both indents.  If using a leather rotary punch, adjust the punch to the smallest setting and punch over both indents.
Step 5:  Drop your gem into its rim.
Step 6: Chances are, it isn't going to fit into the rim snugly.  This is where your glue comes in....
Step 7: Gently but firmly grasp the prongs of the rim between your thumb and forefinger.  Apply a small drop of hot glue to the side of the rim/back of the gem. Note: This is the hardest part of the entire job.  Sometimes your gem will shift as you work and end up not sitting 100% perfectly centered.  Chances are that most of your gems will end up being 90%-100% centered most of the time; every so often when they are less so, I take them out, wipe out the stone and the rim, and give it another go. You can avoid this happening by holding only the rim and not bumping the gem with your finger or the glue tip. Practice will improve your successful turnout greatly.   Trying to do a lot of gems at  once can be frustrating, so I ususally do batches of 7/8 in one sitting....which is usually what is needed for one collar.
Step 8:  Gently push rim teeth into styrofoam block just enough that  it will stay.  Position upside-down and allow to dry (approximately 7 hours).
Step 9:  When the glue is dry, fill in the rest of the back, paying special attention to closing in any gaps between the gemstone edge and the rim.
Step 10:  Repeat step 8 until glue is fully dry.
Step 11: Remember in step 3 when you poked the prongs into your base? Very gently push  your rimmed gem into these holes, putting pressure only on the rim, not the gem.  Rock it genly into place using your fingertips.
Step 12:  Use the flat head of a screwdriver to press the prongs firmly down....
...and your first gemstone is complete!
Step 13:  Repeat steps 4 through 7 for each stud until all of your gems have been placed.
Step 14:  If your collar involves studs or spikes, follow necessary tutorials until collar is complete!
Attaching studs and gems first is a good idea so that you hand is not hindered by the long spikes.