Unitards

Introduction

The unitard, sometimes called a catsuit, is the principal piece of a CATS costume.  A unitard is a leotard with arms and legs. Unitards come in all colors, sizes, and styles.  Most CATS costumes require a white long-sleeve, mock-neck unitard (with the exception of several characters who wear scoop necks).  Dancewear is usually made from one of three blends of material:

Cotton/Lycra:
a matte (non-shiny) stretch fabric that comes in either 2-way or 4-way stretch.  Cotton/lycra takes to dye slightly better than nylon/lycra but does not stretch quite as well.  It does not have an authentic-looking shine.

Nylon/Lycra: a glossy stretch fabric that comes in 2-way, 4-way, 6-way, or 8-way stretch.  2- and 4-way are the most common.  Nylon/lycra is usually the fabric costumers choose because of its authentic-looking shine.  

Milliskin: meaning "second skin," milliskin is a shiny 
2-way, 4-way, 6-way, or 8-way stretch 'industrial strength' nylon/lycra fabric.  Thicker and more durable than cotton/lycra or nylon/lycra, milliskin is harder to find and more expensive than other stretch fabrics.  Milliskin is used in movies (i.e. Spiderman) and theatre (i.e. CATS, Cirque du Soleil) because of its durability, comfort, and tendency to take well to dyes and paints.

Unitards have varying features depending on the brand.  One very important feature is where the seams are located.  Ideally seams should run up the back and inner legs.  A front seam is not preferable, especially if your character has a white chest, or “bib.”  Other less-important features include: where zippers/snaps are located (back, shoulders, and/or crotch are common areas); how the hands and feet are designed (see below chart), and if the unitard will need any alterations.


foot chart

Common dance brands include Bal-Togs, Capezio, Danskin, Leo's, Motionwear, and SoDanca. Only a few of these companies produce unitards suitable for CATS costumes. Most CATS costumers use Bal-Togs unitards because of their availability and quality.  Zentai unitards are make overseas and, while they are less expensive, have bulky zippers, crotch snaps, and are are made from super-thin material.   
What Are My Choices?

1. Store-bought:  A store-bought unitard is the best way to go for a beginner, and for many seasoned costumers as well!  Buying a unitard means no extra work on your part, and not needing to alter a pattern to adjust measurements, zippers, and seams.         
   

2. Homemade:  Some costumers prefer to sew their own unitards to their exact measurements.  Some draft their own patterns, and others use pre-existing patterns.  There are very few unitard patters available for purchase, and those that are are often out-of-print or hard to find. 

  • Pattern Manufacturers:
    • Kwik Sew provides one unitard pattern with a front seam (see Sources & Supplies > Patterns)
    • Butterick, McCall, Serenity, and Vogue do not have acceptable unitard patterns for CATS costuming.
  • Somewhat Stretchy: this website provides detailed instructions on how to make your own unitard pattern in several styles, and provides instructions on drafting a pattern.  This is only recommended for people experienced in sewing and drafting.
  • Factory-made: some costumers take apart a factory-made unitard and trace it onto pattern paper to create a pattern that they then adjust.

3. Commission:  You may want to commission an experienced costumer who can make a unitard to fit your exact measurements.
     
Home Back