Lady Jemima's Costume Corner - Unitard Painting Tutorial



There are quite a few ways to paint a unitard. Costumers usually have their favorite methods, but the only way to know what works best for you is to try out different techniques on scrap fabric and see what suits your style! Note: I do not cover airbrushing due to lack of experience. Paint Water Palette/Plate/Foil/etc. Paper Towels Old washcloths possibly the following... Brushes Squeeze bottles Sponges - natural or synthetic Squirt bottles Jacquard Airfix / No Heat Fixative Iron





Paint brushes have handles made of either plastic or wood, and are found in standard sizes of 000 to 20 (though some companies produce brushes as fine as 0000000 and 30). Brush bristles are either natural (sable, sabeline or ox, squirrel, pony, goad, badger, or "camel" hair--a blend of natural fibers) or synthetic (nylon filament). Natural hair is of higher quality than synthetic, and should be used if at all possible. Blends of natural and synthetic are very common, and are a good choice for a mid-level, affordable brush. Though brushes come in every conceivable shape and size, most companies produce a standard "assortment" with actual names that describe the shape of the bristles. I have described these shapes in the following section. Below is an example of paint brushes used on a CATS costume:
Brushes - Round: round brushes have long, loosely arranged bristles.

Brushes - Flat: long, flat bristles can create a thick line or sharp edge depending on usage, and are often used for spreading paint quickly and evenly over surfaces.

Brushes - Angled: can produce a crisp, straight, sharp line of varying widths depending on pressure applies. (I personally use this brush for all my hatching).

Brushes - Filbert: much like the flat, but with a slightly rounded edge. A filbert can create a softer stroke than a round.

Brushes - Fan: fanned-out bristles can be used for unique texture and design.

Brushes - Foam-Tipped: found in most craft/art stores and online, the usual bristles on this brush are replaced by a rounded foam tip. The tip absorbs quite a bit of paint but is very poor at creating a thin, straight line, though it is useful for coloring in small areas of solid color by pressing down the broad side onto fabric.




Sponges, either natural or synthetic, can be used to create interesting textures on your unitard. Sponging is also a good way to cover an entire unitard with a base color. Below is an example of sponging on a CATS costume:

Spray Bottles can be an effective method of distributing color, and can provide interesting texture, especially from the overspray.
Overspray can sometime occur with a spray bottle, and depending on the force and length of the spray, you will be left with a heavily painted center with stippling around the outer edges. Sometimes a forceful bottle will create overspray, or tiny, seemingly random splatters, or overspray, in an area around the actual sprayed area.




Squeeze bottles come with a variety of tips. The three most common you will find are: 1. Plastic pre-cut tips: your standard inexpensive squeeze bottle with be made completely of plastic with a top that has a pre-made hole in the tip. These holes are much, much too large for costume painting, as too much paint will come out and create very thick, heavy lines. 2. Plastic uncut tips: possibly the best option for control, you can purchase plastic bottles that have no opening; the size of the hole made is up to the consumer. You can use anything from scissors to a pin to create a hole. This option is especially nice if you need a hole smaller than what a metal tip can provide. 3. Metal tips: my choice for painting details like thin lines and hatching. Holes come in a variety of sizes defined by number; my favorite is #7 and #9 which I use to do hatching. They are sturdy and give the costumer as much control over paint flow as desired. All metal tips are not created equal. I have tried several and to date my favorite is the kind sold by the Dharma Trading Company; not long ago I purchased a set from Michaels and was disappointed that they snagged the unitard fabric and tended to bleed a bit around the tip.



Mixing and Diluting Paint: Use water to cut (dilute) paint if desired. Dye-na-flow never needs to be cut. I personally like my Jacquards paint about the consistency of milk.

Using a Squeeze Bottle (step 1): Remove the lid of the squeeze bottle and fit a funnel into the opening. Pour paint into into the funnel, using your finger or pencil to push paint into bottle if the paint is thick. Fill the container at least halfway, as painting will be easier with a full or nearly full bottle.

Using a Squeeze Bottle (step 2): Squeeze gently onto fabric, using the slightest pressure, until area is complete! Note: when using a squeeze bottle of any kind for the first time, it is wise to practice on a sheet of paper or cardboard or scrap fabric before using it on your costume. Managing a straight and even line is very difficult even for experienced costumers. It helps to stretch the fabric on an arm/leg or with thumbtacks so the paint does not absorb/bleed into the fabric. Also beware blobs of air which will interrupt your flow and sometimes lead to sudden bursts of paint. After practicing you will also be able to better tell when this is about to occur and compensate by shaking the bottle to pop the air bubble.





Hatching is a method of shading using (usually fine) closely spaced lines. It can be used to create the impression of elongation and fluidity. Below is an example of hatching on a CATS costume:




Cross-Hatching is the horizontal and vertical placement of hatched lines to create the appearance of an "X". Many "X"s together create a very complex, textured impression. Below is an example of cross-hatching on a CATS costume:




Stippling is speckling or spotting by means of touching your pencil or brush directly onto the canvas in order for form texture and shadow. The denser the stippling is, the darker the medium will appear. Below is an example of stippling on a CATS costume:




Miscellaneous textures and less orthodox designs create great effects! Use brushes and sponges in unorthodox ways. Experiment!




All costumes will eventually fade with time and washing. However, a technique called "heat setting" can aid in preventing this by helping the paints and/or dye adhere to the fabric. Unfortunately it is exceptionally difficult to heat set CATS costumes because of their delicacy, but it is a recommended practice nonetheless.

Chemical Fixative: The first and best option for heat setting is Jacquard Airbrush Fixative. This semi-liquid chemical is added in extremely small amounts to paint and supposedly eliminates the need for ironing.

Step 1: Bottle instructions read: About 1 teaspoon per quart to any water based fabric paint, or 3% by weight. Use mixture within 6 hours. Use only in a well ventilated area, and avoid skin contact. Wash well with soap and water. To put the amount of fixative you need into perspective, a standard jar of Jacquard paint is 2.5oz. A quart is equal to 32oz, so one teaspoon of fixative is relative to 32oz of paint. By dividing 32 by 16 you reach 2oz (similar to a 2.25oz jar of Jacquard paint). Thus the amount of fixative used needs to be divided by 16 as well, leaving you with 1/16th a teaspoon per 2oz of paint. However, most costumers work with about 1/5th a jar of paint at a time, which reduces the amount of fixative needed to 1/80th of a teaspoon!

Step 2: Pour desired amount of paint onto palette/plate/etc. Never mix fixative into the jar of paint itself; this contaminates the paint and will destroy it over time. I personally add my airfix by dipping the wooden (or plastic) end of my paintbrush into the Airfix so that the it coats the brush with a very thin later. Though it seems like a small amount, it is probably more than is needed!

Step 3: Mix fixative thoroughly into paint.

(Step 4): Both Jacquard Airfix and Versatex No Heat fixative have an annoying tendency to take on the consistency of cottage cheese over time. Both products seem to "curdle" after 6 months, particularly after being opened and affected by outside contaminates. Rupert, Gibbon, and Spider, the company that manufactures both Versatex and Jacquard brands, has reported that they are perplexed as to why this happens. A Dharma Trading Co. representative advised that the fixative is probably still usable so long as it is mixed enough so that all lumps disappear. I have used "cottage cheese" fixative in the past myself, but recommend ordering the product as closely to painting as possible in order to avoid the problem.	no photo, sorry



Irons are sometimes used by costumers to heat set fabric, either with or exclusively of a fixative. Ironing nylon/lycra is a very delicate process and can result in burns and holes since nylon/lycra melts very easily. However, this has been done with success. Covering your costume with a sheet and keeping the iron constantly moving on LOW HEAT will help prevent disaster.



Dryers will not provide enough heat to properly set paint, but it is a good last result if fixatives or ironing are not options for you.



Hairdryers speeds up the drying of paint, but will not provide enough heat to properly set your costume.


A little bit of paint goes a looooong way, so always start with a small amount and add more if you need to. I personally start with 1-3 teaspoons, even if I plan on working on a large area. Remember that you can always pour more out, but you can never pour your paint back in. Most paint stays usable for 2-3 days when covered tightly with aluminum foil. Over time it will become dry and plastic-y. Remember that chemical fixatives last only a certain amount of time, so if you re-use paint, be sure to add more if you've exceeded the time limit. Mix colors and textures for a more varied, detailed look! When a mistake happens, it is usually best to alter your plans slightly to incorporate it into the design. However, if a mistake must be removed, it is best to attempt to fix it immediately, especially if using a fixative. Keep two bowls (one empty, one with clean water) and a washcloth nearby at all times when painting in case of emergencies. Soak the cloth in clean water, dab (not rub) at the paint, and wring out the dirty water in the dry bowl. Soda a different section of the cloth in clean water, and dab again. Continue this until the area has disappeared or substantially faded (it will often dry lighter than it looks). Try not to use the same area of the cloth again, because it will spread tiny paint particles into the unitard and make your problem worse. Clean a squeeze bottle by removing the lid and using your finger to flush out extra paint under running water. Use a Q-tip to reach hard-to-access areas. Always clean brushes with a brush cleaner, never with regular soap, after finishing your session. Most art and hobby stores sell several brands of cleaner that have instructions on the container. Do not let paint dry on brushes. If paint does dry on your brush, lather it gently in brush cleaner and allow it to soak for 5-10 minutes before rinsing it with warm water, gently massaging the bristles as you do. Use quality brushes for more control and quality. In the world of brushes, you get what you pay for. I have been using the mid-priced Sapphire brand of brushes (sold at Michaels, AC Moore, and online) for several years and have yet to be disappointed. When using a fixative, it is still a good idea to use an iron over the painted areas of your costume. This way you are doubly assured of heat setting your paint.

	Thank you MsJellicle for the photograph!
	Thank you Roxanne for the photograph!