Step 12:  Rightside wig out and place it on your head. You will now be left with the hole at the top of the wig.
Step 13:  With the wig still on your head, have another person pull the hole upwards and pinch its base together with his/her fingers (light dotted line on diagram).
Step 14:  Pin a straight line ¾” above the initial pinch.
Step 15:   Turn the wig inside out with pins still in place.  You will see that the fabric meets where the hole was pinned together (pins are now invisible, as they are on the fur-side of the wig). Mark where the fabric meets with your pen (see blue line below).
Step 16:  Remove pins (remember, they are on the fur-side of the wig holding the hole together), and push the hole area entirely inside out.  You will then have a completely insided-out wig with a blue line (see photo).  Sew along this line.
Step 17: Cut off excess material to the right of sewn line. Note: Always save extra pieces.
Note: You may either cover the pink rubber ears with fur, or cut them off and sew on new fur-made ears.   Either option is fine, although CATS wigs tend to have their ears placed slightly to the side, rather than on top as the rubber ears are.  In case you decide to make new ears, I’ve included the steps how to do this.  If not, skip to step 19.
Step 18a:  Cut off rubber ears as close to base as possible and turn wig inside out.
Step 18b:  Cut two squares from extra wig material, each 4” by 4” long.
Step 18c:  Turn wig inside out and glue squares fur-side down over ear holes.
Step 18d:  Cut two ears (four panels total).  (It is recommended that you draw out a pattern on paper before cutting material).  Take two panels, arrange them so that the fabric-side of each is facing out, and sew around the rim (see red line) leaving .5" unsewn (see blue guide).
Step 18e:  Turn ears so that fur-side is facing out, and fill with polyester stuffing. Note: do not overfill. Only a small amount is needed!
Step 18f:  Sew opening of ear (see red dotted line) approximately .5" from bottom of ear. This will leave .5" flap on either side.
Step 18c:  Place ears in desired position on wig, using pins to keep in place.  Hand-sew .5" flaps onto wig.  Voila!
Step 19:  Most CATS wigs are cut with a straight line down the actor’s cheek, whereas the RCH is cut with a sloping curve away from the face.  This might work well for your purposes, but you may want to alter your wig so that it resembles a more authentic wig.  Cut two panels from extra material. (Hint: draw out a pattern on paper first, then trace it onto the actual fabric).
Step 20:  Pin the flaps onto their respective sides of the wig.
Step 21:  Turn the wig inside out an sew along pin line, making sure that as much fur as possible is out of the way on the reverse side.   Do not worry about the seams showing; as you style your wig, fur will cover sewn lines.
Step 22:  Trim the wig using a pair of small bathroom scissors.  Since CATS wigs vary for characters and productions, it would be difficult to write a tutorial for shaping.  Use good judgment, and find as many photographs of your character’s wig as possible for references.  It’s tempting to go scissor-happy, but cutting a little bit at a time is always wiser than one big stroke.  Feathering (similar to cutting a fringe on paper) will give the wig a more natural look than straight cuts will.  I like to cut a small triangular area away from the wig where it sits at your temples; it squares the face like authentic wigs do. When you are finished, you may see areas that need extra coverage.  You can cover these areas using extra fur from the hood or wrist pieces with a dab of hot glue.
Step 23: Trim the wig using a pair of small bathroom scissors.  Since CATS wigs vary for characters and productions, it would be difficult to write a tutorial for shaping.  Use good judgment, and find as many photographs of your character’s wig as possible for references.  It’s tempting to go scissor-happy, but cutting a little bit at a time is always wiser than one big stroke.  Feathering (similar to cutting a fringe on paper) will give the wig a more natural look than straight cuts will.  I like to cut a small triangular area away from the wig where it sits at your temples; it squares the face like authentic wigs do. Note: When you are finished, you may see areas that need extra coverage.  You can cover these areas using extra fur from the hood or wrist pieces with a dab of hot glue.
Step 24: Use a styling wax to sculpt stubborn fibers into place, then spray the wig with maximum-hold hairspray.  Let it air out for several days before use or storage.
An excellent hairspray is AquaNet extra super hold, available at most chain stores.  It provides a stronger hold than other hairsprays. Be sure to brush your wig as you spray to avoid droplets forming on the wig fibers.